Gilgit, Hunza, Naltar, Passau, Minapin, Astore & Deosai
Our guidebook describes this region as “between Central Asia and the
plains of Pakistan is a geographical vortex rich in history, cultural diversity
and dramatic natural beauty. In this collision zone of the Indian and Asian
continents, the Pamir, Kunlun, Hindukush, Karakoram and Great Himalaya ranges
are knotted together. In the 1960s, Pakistan and China jointly cut a road
across these mountains, following a branch of ancient network of trade routes
known as the Silk Road. This Karakoram Highway (KKH) connects the Silk Road
oasis of Kashgar with Islamabad, Pakistan’s modern capital, via the
4730m Khunjerab Pass, the semimythical Hunza Valley and the trading post
of Gilgit”. We really loved this section of Northern Pakistan. The
KKH is truly one of the modern marvels of engineering, with the highest
paved international border crossing in the world at 4,693 meters (15,397
feet). Even though we had heard about how spectacularly beautiful Northern
Pakistan was prior to our travels here, nothing prepared us for the incredible
scenery to be had around every corner.
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| Sunflowers in bloom; Gilgit | Beautiful flowers can be seen at the Hotel Riveria's garden | Our Gilgit hotel...the Hotel Riveria is a stone's throw away from the Gilgit River
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| View of Gilgit City Park | NATCO bus stop with a "Welcome to Gilgit" stencil
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The outskirts of the Gilgit bazaar |
| Polo is big business in Gilgit as evidenced by this polo player statue | We crossed the raging Gilgit River on our way up to Naltar
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A woman laying out apricots to sun dry |
| It was a spectacular jeep drive from Gilgit to Naltar | Our first view of Naltar, which is home to our driver Jan | Becky instantly fell in love with Naltar, which she aptly nicknamed "Little Switzerland"
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Naltar's alpine scenery
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Our jeep was perfectly suited for Naltar's rough roads
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Jan decided to take us up to the Naltar Lake |
Rock walls are constantly collapsing and being rebuilt
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Gorgeous veiws abound in Naltar |
Our first glimpse of Naltar Lake |
Close up view of a Naltar elder
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Donkey transport is a reliable (and cheap) means of carrying firewood |
Becky, Jan, Robby and Zia at Naltar Lake
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What a serene part of Northern Pakistan...Naltar has the reputation of being one of Gilgit's loveliest valleys
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Zia, Robby and Jan pose beside our dependable jeep |
A donkey and her new born calf strike a pose nearby another Naltar Lake |
The fantastic blue hue of this lake is totally eye catching
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Becky thought Naltar was one of the prettiest places in N Pakistan! |
What a view! |
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These goats crossed over the wooden bridge all by themselves!
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Can you imagine a larger vehicle attempting this river crossing? |
After enjoying our time around Naltar Lake, we headed back down to check into our hotel
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Upper Naltar is a popular destination in the summer...would you believe all the hotels were fully booked shortly after we checked into the 4 View Hotel?
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Becky and Jan walk towards an impromptu polo match; Naltar |
It was a fairly short walk to reach the polo playing field |
A super packed van zooms on past us, with the school boys waving in greeting
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What a magnificent setting for a polo match! |
Water is plentiful in scenic Naltar |
We thought the Naltar Valley was even more beautiful than Shandur for a polo match
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Villagers live in Naltar year round, although we can certainly see its appeal in the summer
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The Naltar polo players were hard charging, but not as skilled as the Gilgit and Chitral teams |
The polo horses are hardy animals, often raced for hours on end
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Naltar fans climb atop a rock wall to watch the polo match |
The polo player who invited us to come watch him play cuts a fine figure on the field
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Polo in Pakistan is akin to soccer in Europe...its wildly popular
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After the polo match was over, we were invited to strike our best polo pose |
Young fans crowd their polo heroes...its every boy's dream to become a top polo player
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A close up of Becky atop her polo horse
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Afterwards, it was Robby's turn
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He looked at ease on the polo horse
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We all enjoyed our chicken karai dinner at the Hilltop Hotel
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Our overnight lodgings in Naltar at the 4 View Hotel |
We pulled over for breakfast at this road side stop
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Robby even got settled in underneath a shady tree...however, Zia informed us they had no eggs, so we decided to press on
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Our first view of Rakaposhi (7788 meters) |
This woman was busy laying out apricots to dry
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Everyone told us the scenery of Northern Pakistan was mind blowing, but seeing is believing
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We stopped at the Rakaposhi View Restaurant for a cup of tea, paratha, and fried eggs
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And had a nice view of Rakaposhi Mountain while we dined on breakfast |
Zia, Robby and Jan pose beneath the looming Rakaposhi Mountain
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Jan pours us another cuppa tea |
The Rakaposhi View Restaurant had a small souvenir stand displaying various wares for sale
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Snow capped mountains are a common sight in Northern Pakistan
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We couldn't take our eyes off the passing scenery |
And it didn't take too long to finally reach the fabled Hunza Valley (Karimabad)
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Quaint, narrow alleyways abound in old Karimabad
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Pakistan Post conveniently located outside Baltit Fort
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Robby and Becky pose outside the Potala Palace inspired Baltit Fort; Karimabad |
| Souvenir shops abound in old Karimabad | Its an easy uphill stroll to reach Baltit Fort | Zia buys our entrance tickets to Baltit Fort
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Zia hands our entrance tickets over to the Baltit Fort guard
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Check out his massive mustache! |
Interior kitchen; Baltit Fort |
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Robby peers out from behind the entrance way portal; Baltit Fort
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The Baltit Fort was painstakingly reconstructed to its original state in the 1990s and remains a jewel of the Hunza Valley
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Becky has to crouch to crawl through a passageway
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Roof top view of Baltit Fort
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Large ibex horns are mounted to the exterior of the fort |
We were surprised that we were allowed to take photos inside the fort, but our guide urged us to snap away
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Close up view of the throne terrace, Baltit Fort rooftop
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The Baltit Fort construction has been inspired by Tibet's Potala Palace |
From the top of Baltit Fort, there is a fine bird's eye view of the Hunza Valley
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Reception room; Baltit Fort
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A snapshot of Karimabad (below Baltit Fort)
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Mir Nazim Khan added his personal touch to this section of the Baltit Fort
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This room has several old photos of Baltit Fort rulers as well as their royal outfits
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Robby and Becky dressed up in traditional Hunza garb
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A picture perfect day to visit the beautiful Baltit Fort |
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One final look at the interior of Baltit Fort
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It is easy to imagine that Baltit is Hunza's ancient capital, with its magnificent fort
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An old cannon sits atop Baltit Fort |
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Karimabad locals stuffing potatoes into sacks, getting them ready for the market
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A long windy road leads to the Hunza Valley |
Sun dried apricots line the rooftops of just about every house in Karimabad
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Old Ganish Village...a popular stop along the old Silk Route
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Village boys horsing around old Ganish Village's water tank |
Another view of Ganish Village, which won a UNESCO Asia Pacific Heritage award in 2002
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A cluster of wooden mosques in old Ganish Village
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Local villagers are busy drying apricots on their rooftops
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A richly carved wooden mosque; Ganish Village
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Interior view of Ganish Village...today about 31 families live here
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Our guide's family mosque; Ganish Village |
Our guide, Robby, and Zia strike a pose on the rooftop of a Ganish Village dwelling
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| One of the four original watch towers; Ganish Village | Robby has to crouch to enter this home's "winter" room | Rooftop view of a typical Ganish Village house (notice the opening in the ceiling to allow sunlight to filter into the upstairs "summer" room)
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| Children playing on the outskirts of Ganish Village | The famed water tank of Ganish Village | A man peacefully snoozes under the trees at Ganish Village
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| The Baltit Fort is a magnificent gem in the Hunza Valley | View of the surrounding rooftops (as seen from the Altit Fort, a sister fort of the Baltit Fort) | Renovations for the Altit Fort should be complete by 2009, according to our local guide
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Festival flags adorn the alleyways of the Altit Fort area
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Dried apricots galore! |
A lady hard at work sorting out apricots to dry
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The Altit Fort families are a laid back and relaxed group
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Entrance portal to the Altit Fort area...explore the narrow alleyways and labyrinth layout of the town!
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We drove up to Duikar sunset point to catch the sunset |
But we had spent too much time exploring Altit Fort, so the sun had already set
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View of Altit Fort area as seen from Duikar Sunset Point |
It was a 45 minute mad dash to reach Duikar sunset point from downtown Karimabad
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Its often cloudy at these majestic peaks, but here is a rare moment of clarity
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Robby and Becky marvel at the view; Duikar Sunset Point |
Becky hides in one of the many "caves"; Duikar |
Becky's cave has Robby's beat!
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The following morning, we woke up early and drove out towards Passu Glacier
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To reach our first destination, Borit Lake, we had to drive up a steep incline
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Afterwards, we headed out to Passu Glacier and had to hike uphill
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Yes...this is the rocky path up to Passu Glacier! |
Robby pauses for a breather up in Passu |
| Zia takes a photo of us sitting on the edge overlooking the glacier below | Robby joins Zia and Jan for a glacier photo (it doesn't look that steep but they are literally on the edge of a very dangerous cliff with the glacier far below)
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We scramble back downhill after we we get our fill of Passu...quite a feat in flip flops! |
The view looking back down from Passu Glacier
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Robby and Zia are dare devils striking this crazy pose on the edge of this rocky outcrop; Passu
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Borit Lake looks like an oasis of calm |
Ummm, holy cow! This is our first view of the Hussaini bridge, which Zia claims we will traverse across. Our first thought is "no way"
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Zia stops to load us up with a handful of fresh apricots |
The fabled Hussaini suspension bridge |
Jan crossed the bridge with ease
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Robby immediately starts monkeying around, striking his best "Indiana Jones" pose |
Becky is absolutely terrified of falling into the raging water below and focuses on keeping her footing
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An elderly woman reassuringly pats Becky on the back and urges us to "be brave"
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Becky takes a snapshot of the spacing of the planks of the bridge |
Jan and Becky finally make it across! |
View of Hussaini bridge as seen from the other side of the river bank
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Becky soon feels at ease on the bridge and strikes her own crazy pose |
Robby shows her how its done as he starts rocking and swaying the cables with his weight
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We survived the Hussaini Bridge...a triumphant group photo celebrating our crossing!
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Pretty flowers adorn the path on the way to the Hussaini suspension bridge |
Our comfortable Minapin lodging, the wonderful Diran Guest House |
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Apples fresh for the picking; Minapin orchards (these were very sweet)
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Sun dried apricots is a Northern Pakistan thing in the summer...in every town and village, we noticed blankets of apricots strewn everywhere!
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Indeed, we can confirm apricots a-plenty in Minapin! |
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To Becky's surprise, hiking around in her shalwar kameez was quite comfortable
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Not sure what kind of berries these are, but their vivid color caught our eye |
Minapin serves as the perfect basecamp for a hike up to the looming Rakaposhi, which is rated an easy (relative term) 3 day hike
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Robby decides that a hike up to this lookout point is good enough (Rakaposhi is visible in the background)
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Zia agrees and strikes the same pose |
Becky admires the lovely view of Minapin |
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On our way up, we stop to take a few breathers...its physically exerting to hike around at this elevation
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But the reward is well worth it! What a view |
Jan, Zia and Robby decide to take a short cut on our way back down to Minapin |
A lone cow moos at us; Minapin
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A final snapshot of pretty Minapin
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Pretty flowers abound; Diran Guest House
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Most travelers spend a few days in lovely Minapin, soaking up the scenery
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Not sure what these trees are called, but they soon became our favorite. We noticed a lot of farmers use them to annotate the outer most boundary of their property
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School boys dressed in their smart uniforms headed out to their daily classes |
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A large standing Buddha is etched into the rock face near Gilgit
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The 7th Century Kargah Buddha is still perfectly preserved
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We are back in Gilgit to stock up on supplies and money before our onward trip to Baltistan
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The Gilgit bazaar is a bustling hive of activity
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A man and his goat take a short rest; Gilgit
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Everyone helps out to straighten this car...its teamwork at its finest! |
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Fresh grapes for sale...we buy some for 10 Rupees
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The view as we drive upward to Astore |
Astore village is located at 2450 meters, and serves as a popular base to hike the dangerous (and beautiful) Nanga Parbat
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After we checked into our PTDC motel in Astore, we decided to hike up to Rama Lake
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The lush scenery around us made it an enjoyable "short" hike (Zia would always say our hikes were short...when asked how short, he'd just say 30 minutes)
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Needless to say, our hikes never were "30 minutes"...we always gave Zia a hard time about his calculations! |
We decide to take a group photo on our hike up to Rama Lake
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First, a brief stop to visit a local family who migrated up to Astore to take advantage of the summer grazing
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The family lived simply in this stone dwelling, but immediately offered us some tea and na'an |
We rejoiced upon seeing this lake but Zia insisted we keep on going...its a "short" hike, after all!
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But with scenery like this, we didn't complain too much |
We finally made it! Rama Lake was worth the hike
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It was a whole lot easier hiking downhill from Rama Lake than uphill!
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Pretty pink flowers; Rama Lake |
There were several fishermen casting for trout |
A laid back bull just chilling and keeping a close eye on us
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The wonderful PTDC Rama Lake motel | Traffic jam, Astore style |
These goats have a mind of their own, and bring all vehicular traffic to a halt as they walk on by
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The goat/sheep herder has his hands full! |
An "Astore" license plate |
The precariously perched Astore bazaar literally hugs the side of a cliff
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We stopped here to buy overnight supplies for Deosai National Park |
Astore bazaar reminded us of one of those old towns in a western movie...all that was missing were the gun slingers and horses!
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Shops are open for business but the streets of Astore bazaar remain relatively empty
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Need a new sole for your shoe? Look no further than this leathersmith |
We pulled over to this small ramshackle town for a cup of tea (enroute to Deosai) and the locals came out to check us out |
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Jan and Robby await their milk tea
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Surprisingly, within the Deosai National Park, there are a few small villages such as this one
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We loved this Deosai National Park sign! |
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| A typical village in Deosai National Park | An another one...we highly doubt the villagers have to pay the 585 Rupee entry fee to gain access to the Deosai National Park!
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Robby and Zia at Deosai Lake |
Becky lies in a bed of flowers; Deosai Lake
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A "K2 Travel Service" transports locals to Deosai National Park
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Becky is a mango fiend and enjoys the treat down by the lake |
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Our jeep ably traversed this body of water...Jan makes it look so easy!
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We sit on the hood of our jeep as Jan drives us across this low slung bridge |
Another angle of Deosai National Park's most famous bridge
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After we decide to camp here for the night, it took us no time at all to erect our tent
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Another view of the Deosai park campground |
Robby and Zia enjoy some fresh fruit |
Immediately after Robby took this photo, Becky lost one of her flip flops to the fast moving current...some nice boys chased it down for over a half mile to retrieve it for her!
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Zia cuts up and serves our fruit on a platter
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Robby poses with our rescue crew...what kind hearted souls! |
Our campground at dusk
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Our campground's mess tent, where we enjoyed dinner
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The friendly Deosai Park Ranger...what a crazy beard!
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After dinner, the obligatory cup of tea is served
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Zia shows the park ranger his photo image |
We thanked the park ranger for his hospitality |
One last group shot before we depart Deosai National Park
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A horse train; Deosai National Park |
Golden marmots pop up in curiosity, watching our every move
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A parting shot of the ever inquisitive marmot
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