Grand Trunk Road

Pakistan is a relatively easy country for us to visit since we are just a stone’s throw away in neighboring Afghanistan. Obtaining a visa from the Pakistani Embassy in Kabul took mere hours, and it was an easy-breezy affair to be granted a 6 month, multi-entry visa.

Finding a travel agent to Pakistan wasn't as easy. Unlike neighboring India, Pakistan's internet based travel agencies are not thriving, and Becky's numerous inquiries into various travel options routinely went unanswered. However, Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree website came to the rescue, and we were provided with Vertical Explorer's contact information. From our personal experience, we found Syed (vexplorers@gmail.com) from Vertical Explorers to be very helpful, providing instant feedback. He proved most accommodating and eager to please. After several online discussions, we quickly narrowed down our aggressive 4 day R&R to include the following sights: Lahore (spinning with the Sufis, Moghul architecture), Wahgah (Pakistan-India border ceremony), Rohtas Fort, Khewra Salt Mines (the second largest in the world!), 'pindi and Islamabad, Taxila & Takht-i-Bahi (Gandhara Buddhist ruins), and last but not least, Peshawar, which lived up to its reputation and reminded us of the wild, wild, West!

We can wholeheartedly recommend Vertical Explorers. They are consummate professionals who ensured that our every need was met. And they were able to cater our tour to adjust to our budget...simply fantastic. We had such a positive experience that we are planning on a return trip with them to experience the KKH and perhaps observe the Shandur polo match in July. Two thumbs up!

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 Saeed, Robby, and Wajid Ali pose at Badshahi Mosque

 

 Magnificent archways of Lahore's massive Badshahi Mosque

 

 Robby sits on the comfy feet-washing stools, Badshahi Mosque

 

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  View of a crumbling palace, Lahore Fort

 

  Old fashioned lawn-mower, Lahore Fort

 

Gorgeous reception hall, Lahore Fort

 

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 Fantastic view over Badshahi Mosque (from Lahore Fort)

 

Worker busy in the restoration of Lahore Fort

 

Faded glory, one of Lahore Fort's many entrances

 

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 Wide archways surrounding Jehangir's tomb

 

 Entrance portal towards Jehangir's Tomb (Note: This is part of the courtyard of the 180 room caravanserai)

 

The crumbling tomb of Asif Khan

 

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 Our car's license plate (Wajid Ali was always fastidious about keeping the car immaculately clean!)

 

 Mile marker at the Pakistan-Indian border crossing

 

The Pakistan gates of the Wagah border ceremony

 

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 Getting ready for the flag-lowering ceremony

 

Sitting atop admiring the fine view of Rohtas Fort

 

"Welcome to Lahore" sign greets us at the culmination of the Wagah border ceremony

 

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 Pakistan Zindabad! Long Live Pakistan!

 

 Sturdy archways provide for underground passageways at Rohtas Fort

 

View looking back over at Rohtas Fort

 

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Wajid Ali stands beside a mosque built entirely out of salt crystals! (See how the light showcases the unique colors of salt?)

 

  Underground Mosque built entirely of salt, Khewra Salt Mine

 

  Post Office and Internet Cafe, Khewra Salt Mine

 

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 Sunrise from Shakarparian hills

 

The massive Shah Faisal Mosque, Islamabad

 

Tons of marble were used to construct the Shah Faisal Mosque (At a cost of $50M)

 

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 Jaulian care keeper and Robby

 

 Takht-i-Bahi caretaker and Robby

 

 Dedication plaque, Islamia College

 

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  This Buddha was actually whole!

 

  We love these jingle-trucks!

 

Front facade of Bala Hisar Fort, Peshawar

 

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 Vendors prepare for the iftar (breaking of the fast) during Ramazan

 

 Curious kids befriend Robby, Peshawar

 

 Whole grains for sale, Peshawar

 

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  Gorgeous sunrise at Islamia College's Mosque

 

  Students' meditation cells, Jaulian

 

  Early morning prayers, Islamia College

 

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  This mosque is very popular with Islamabad's poor...everyone gets a free meal here!

 

  Becky, Saeed, and Robby in the foreground of Lahore's Badshahi Mosque

 

  These boxes of donations for the earthquake victims were gratefully received

 

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  Entrance to Badshahi Mosque, Lahore

 

  Amazing Mughal architecture, Lahore

 

Guard taking his duties seriously, Lahore Fort

 

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 Posing at Jehangir's Tomb

 

Tomb of Asif Khan

 

 Pomp and ceremony, Wagah Border Ceremony

 

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 Entrance to the Khewra Salt Mines

 

 Becky showcases the amazing hues of the Khewra Salt Mines

 

Very salty! Only after Becky licked the wall did our guide admit that all visitors lick the walls! Eeeww  

 

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 Pakistani truck drivers have one of the toughest jobs!

 

 Picturesque vista of Badshahi Mosque, Lahore (An amazing 100,000 visitors can worship here!)

 

 Can you picture this site with its original stupas? Takht-i-Bahi

 

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  Becky in front of the Islamia College Mosque

 

 The imposing Bala Hisar Fort, Peshawar

 

Decaying building, Peshawar  
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 Yup, that is Becky behind the wheel!

 

 Bird's eye view of the entrance portal, Badshahi Mosque

 

 Buddha statue at Takht-i-Bahi

 

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 Lahore Fort has a "decayed" look and feel (Note: the entrances to the tower are boarded up to prevent depressed locals from committing suicide!)

 

 Beautiful gardens of Lahore Fort

 Lots of minarets and archways, typical scene from Lahore Fort

 

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  Of course, the obligatory souvenir stands, Lahore Fort

 

  Parting view of Lahore Fort

 

Wajid Ali, Becky, and Saeed posing in front of Jehangir's Tomb  

 

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 Robby crawling through a passageway that leads to the roof of Asif Khan's Tomb

 

 Another variant of the tuk-tuk (notice the front part is actually a motorcycle!)

 

These tiny tuk-tuks aggressively weave in and out of traffic with no fear!  

 

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  Getting ready for the show; border guards patiently await their cue

 

The Pakistan audience (Ramazan definitely took its toll; Saeed told us this is normally packed!)  

 

Pakistan border guards goose-stepping in sync

 

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Late night shopping is in full swing during Ramazan; Lahore's streets are packed!  

 

 Lounging around beside their jingle-truck

 

First view of Rohtas Fort (Qila Rohtas)

 

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  Robby & Becky pose in a giant opening at Rohtas Fort

 

  Built by Sher Shah Suri in the 1500s, Rohtas Fort is surprisingly in great shape!

 

Another view of the archway beside Rohtas Fort

 

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 "Diamond Ally"...this passageway gleamed and dazzled beneath the spot light

 

 Bridge leading to salt pools, Khewra Salt Mine

 

The boys taking a swing in the park

 

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 Interior of Shah Faisal Mosque (inside capacity of 10,000 pax)

 

The cleared remains of the only earthquake damaged building in Islamabad  

 

Buddhist displays, Taxila Museum

 

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 Robby admiring the view from atop the Takht-i-Bahi ruins

 

 Takht-i-Bahi remains atop a rocky hill

 

Workers expanding new finds of Takht-i-Bahi Buddhist ruins  

 

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Busy mosque, Peshawar

 

Interior of Mahabat Khan Mosque

 

Devotees hearing a lecture at Mahabat Khan Mosque, Peshawar
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 Befriending ex-Taliban fighters, Peshawar

 

Sadly, we were unable to enter the Khyber pass region without a tribal escort  

 

 The picturesque Islamia college, Peshawar

 

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 Entrance to Peshawar Museum

 

 All seeing eyes on the back of a donkey cart

 

 Colorful bus loaded to max capacity, Peshawar

 

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 Food street, Lahore (excellent place to grab a tasty bite)

 

 Spinning out with the sufis, Lahore

 

Fresh meat at Lahore's Food street

 

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 Becky standing next to intricately carved wooden door, Lahore Fort

 

 Great lookout point, Lahore fort

 

 Check out the carved columns, Lahore Fort

 

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 Hard at work at Food Street, Lahore

 

 A glimpse of the massive convoy carrying earthquake donations up North to Kashmir

 

Rohtas Fort is impressive even at 500 years old!

 

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 Evening view of Islamabad (the Shah Faisal Mosque really stands out!)

 

 Neatly trimmed gardens, Shakarparian

 

 Becky and Robby in front of the Shah Faisal Mosque (Can you believe the CIA actually believed the 88m minarets were missiles in disguise?)

 

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  Becky climbing atop Takht-i-Bahi

 

  More excavations are expanding the Takht-i-Bahi site

 

  When the bus gets too full, passengers sit on top of the roof!

 

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  Relaxing gardens and pools leading up to The Lahore Fort

 

Entrance to Lahore Fort (Note: The archway is massive enough to accommodate several elephants, which were the transport choice of the Mughal Emperors!)  

 

 We witnessed qawwali (Islamic devotional music and singing) at this mosque...amazing!

 

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Magnificent portal of Jehangir's Tomb

 

Jehangir's tombstone (hand-crafted from marble and gemstones!) Note: There are 99 attributes of Allah in Arabic on the tomb itself!  

 

 Master artisan painstakingly assisting in the restoration of the the Palace of Mirrors, Lahore Fort

 

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  The obligatory salute between Pakistan and India

 

Notice the HUGE crowd cheering on India!

 

 60 meter Minar-i-Pakistan

 

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 Robby should look happier...This train ride saved us a 2 KM hike into the Khewra Salt Mines!

 

 Inside the Khewra Salt Mine

 

And of course, there are the traditional horse 'n cart modes of transport  

 

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 These locals enjoyed an outing on a lake nearby Islamabad

 

 Proud fisherman displaying two huge freshwater fish

 

Ladies carrying loads of bundled grass, Rohtas Fort

 

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  Detail of stupa at Jaulian, Taxila

 

Robby sticking his finger in a well-worn hole in a Buddha statue (supposedly for good luck!)  

 

 Lots of fresh fruit for sale at every intersection

 

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 Hundreds of Buddhist remnants on "display" at the Takht-i-Bahi museum

 

 Monk's meditation cells, Takht-i-Bahi

 

 The well maintained Islamia College

 

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  Its pretty quiet inside the Mahabat Khan Mosque, Peshawar's finest

 

  Exterior of Mahabat Khan Mosque

 

Lots of walls remain intact at Rohtas Fort

 

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  Yippee! Donkey carts and tuk-tuks...what better city transport?

 

Saeed helping us buying some local music

 

 Detail on Islamia College (note: only men are allowed to study here)

 

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 Ornate roof, Lahore Fort

 

 Group photo at Lahore Fort lookout point

 

 Shrine of Baba Shah Jamal, Lahore

 

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 Becky posing at Rohtas Fort

 

 Group photo, Rohtas Fort

 

Robby posing with sweat-drenched sufis, Lahore's famous Thursday night "Spinning with the Sufis" spectacle  

 

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 View of surrounding area, Taxila

 

 Detail of Buddha, Jaulian

 

 Movie poster, Peshawar

 

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  Enjoying dinner, Peshawar